Other things we would become very familiar with in Laos: leftover fragments of bombs from American bombardments of the country, refashioned with wit and practicality into planters and all other kinds of useful and decorative objects, Beer Lao, and clear nights with the beautiful moon, seemingly always full. Lovely.

In Muang Ngoi Neua, we happened upon the first of what would become a regular and awesome part of our lives in Laos. All-you-can-eat buffets, and specifically vegetarian buffets. We couldn’t believe when we happened on this place as we strolled through town and the woman gave us each a plate and told us we could go back as often as we wanted. And there was dessert too! Very simple food, but it so hit the spot, it was so healthy, there was so much choice, and it cost something like $3 for the two of us. Why did I never know this about Laos???

Ahh. No seriously, ahhhhhhh.

Our ultimate destination was Luang Prabang (and ATMs!) and we were running out of money, but we just had to check out what people describe as a hidden gem- the tiny town of Muang Ngoi Neua. 1 road town, can only be accessed by the water, totally chillaxed, and the guesthouse with great views offered us their last available room at a good rate. How could we say no? Ok, one more night!

The boat ride was pretty idyllic, and the mountains rising in the distance were pretty dramatic. Unfortunately, some of THOSE BITCHES from our van ride from Vietnam were on this boat with us, regaling us with their incessant and useless chatter. WHY GOD WHY.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay in Muang Khua for too long because there are no ATMs in town, and we didn’t have any Kip (Lao currency). We traded whatever Vietnamese Dong (hee hee) we had left which gave us enough money for a night at the guesthouse, dinner with our new Swiss friends who we met on the way in from Vietnam, and a fare on the boat heading down the river. So early the next morning, we got on the boat, heading south on the Nam Ou. 

“Yo yo! Yo yo!” These little kids wanted to show off their yo-yos. They were a little disappointed in our lack of mad yo-yo-ing skills. Sorry little buddies!